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Holly Fulton

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LONDON, February 21, 2012
By Maya Singer
With her eye-popping graphic style, more-is-more approach to color and embellishment, and overall campy attitude, Holly Fulton practically dares you to hate her clothes. Somehow, that proves impossible. The collection Fulton showed this morning was a case in point: Rainbow-hued and covered in ecstatic hothouse-inspired patterns, the clothes had a certain irrepressible chic. They were about as hard to dislike as a milkshake.

In some ways, this was Fulton at her most circumspect. Embellishment was kept to a relative minimum; silhouettes were simple and sophisticated. Working with a canvas of A-line minidresses, turtlenecks, boxy jackets, tailored sheaths, and pencil skirts, Fulton applied her prints in a painterly way, working with the garments' shapes. That made for some knockout evening looks, such as a hot pink, butterfly-print sheath with a crisscrossed, body-baring bodice, and a high-necked, frond-printed turquoise minidress with a tasteful drip of crystal on the sleeve. There were also a few looks with a hot rod placement print and shots of patent leather that, however redolent of Spring '12 Prada, fit easily into the Fulton idiom and just plain worked. Elsewhere, Fulton sent out some very convincing daywear, in particular her artful intarsia-knit cardigans and sweaters. For all their punch, the knits were really very accessible. Decorous, almost. Only the most militant minimalist could hate them.

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