Helmut Lang
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 10, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
Fall is Nicole and Michael Colovos' second season putting their Helmut Lang collection on the runway, and their confidence is growing. If their Spring outing erred a bit on the repetitive side, this was more freewheeling, yet still within the recognizable framework they've set up during their five-plus years at the brand. Recognizability counts for a lot, going by all the big-name retailers in the front row tonight. From the first look out—a white leather lapel-less blazer, glossy black skinny jeans, and black thigh-high wedge boots—you knew where you were. After that, the Colovoses touched upon their other staples: the wrap leather and fur jacket with the funnel neck; the draped jersey dress; the asymmetric sweaters and cobwebby knits.The freewheeling part came via the details. A stretchy dress was inset with the same armadillo-stamped leather that was used for the sleeves of a blazer. The fur on a belted jacket was dyed a rich shade of ruby red, a color as yet unseen in a collection from the Colovoses, who typically favor neutrals. And a red ponyhair jacket was laser cut in a delicate repeating motif. The prints were borrowed from nature—leafless branches of trees and hardened swirls of lava—but their shapes were resolutely urban. The only misfire was the low-slung, inverted pleat, full-legged trouser. It'd be a shame to cover up those killer over-the-knee boots.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
-
R
-
S
-
T
-
U
Uniqueness United Bamboo -
V
-
W
Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
