February 09, 2012 New York
The freewheeling part came via the details. A stretchy dress was inset with the same armadillo-stamped leather that was used for the sleeves of a blazer. The fur on a belted jacket was dyed a rich shade of ruby red, a color as yet unseen in a collection from the Colovoses, who typically favor neutrals. And a red ponyhair jacket was laser cut in a delicate repeating motif. The prints were borrowed from nature—leafless branches of trees and hardened swirls of lava—but their shapes were resolutely urban. The only misfire was the low-slung, inverted pleat, full-legged trouser. It'd be a shame to cover up those killer over-the-knee boots.