Iceberg's Paolo Gerani wasn't the only designer to give a shout-out to Marianne Faithfull this season. Rachel Zoe beat him to it in New York City. In fact, they sent out nearly matching outfits: white pantsuits with black shirts, and black long-hair goat jackets tossed over the shoulders. Somewhere there must be a picture…45 years on, the rock chick turned singer-songwriter's image still holds a mystique, despite countless comeback tours and a long-playing revival at the hands of Balmain's Christophe Decarnin.

Parts of Iceberg's Fall show felt like Balmain-lite—the disheveled sexy look, minus the couture-quality workmanship, could be seen in the sequin numbers, the sharp, lapel-less jackets, and the second-skin leather pants riding low on the hips. Where Gerani put the Iceberg stamp on things was with the knitwear. There were sweaters here that will give shoppers a reason to go into the label's stores, starting with look number 1, a long-sleeved clingy dress in black and ivory shot through with gold. Crewnecks in bright intarsias looked fresh, too, as did the little furs that echoed them with their multicolor patterns.