Imitation of Christ Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review

Imitation of Christ

NEW YORK, February 12, 2012

By Brittany Adams

Minutes before the start of her Fall presentation—which had a campy magic show theme—Tara Subkoff was in full-on stage director mode. "Pretend that you're in The Artist!" she urged the models, who were encouraged to vamp it up in their role as magician's assistants. "Can you try doing a dramatic reveal and twirl with the cape?" The Imitation of Christ designer, after all, loves the theatrical side of fashion, and her clothes often have a costumey quality about them.

This season featured a collaboration with bespoke tailoring label Doyle Mueser, and the collection was full of fitted pantsuits (think Jerry Hall in the seventies) and sexed-up spins on menswear. There were a couple of fun ideas: Subkoff scooped the arm and shoulder out of a crisp white button-down shirt and paired it with a slit-to-there pencil skirt. And playing on white-tie dressing, she reworked the men's formalwear vest into floor-length satin, adding cool grosgrain belt details in back. The collection as a whole, however, was a bit more gimmick and Gatsby-era romp than real magic.

See all from Imitation of Christ › Timeline

A.F. Vandevorst	A.L.C.	A.P.C.
Acne	A Détacher	Akris
Alberta Ferretti	Albino	Alexander McQueen
Alexander Wang	Alexandre Herchcovitch	Alexis Mabille
Alice + Olivia	Altuzarra	Andrew Gn
Anna Sui	Ann Demeulemeester	Anne Valérie Hash
Ann-Sofie Back Atelje	Anthony Vaccarello	Antonio Berardi
Antonio Marras	Aquascutum	Aquilano.Rimondi
Araks	Azzaro

Badgley Mischka	Balenciaga	Bally
Balmain	Banana Republic	Band of Outsiders
Barbara Bui	Barbara Casasola	Barbara Tfank
Basso & Brooke	BCBG Max Azria	Bebe
Behnaz Sarafpour	Belstaff	Betsey Johnson
Bibhu Mohapatra	Bill Blass	Billy Reid
BLK DNM	Blumarine	Bottega Veneta
Bouchra Jarrar	Brood	Burberry Prorsum

Cacharel	Calla	Calvin Klein Collection
Camilla and Marc	Carlos Miele	Carolina Herrera
Carven	Catherine Malandrino	Cédric Charlier
Celine	Central Saint Martins	Chado Ralph Rucci
Chadwick Bell	Chalayan	Chanel
Charlotte Ronson	Chloé	Chris Benz
Christian Cota	Christian Dior	Christian Siriano
Christophe Lemaire	Christopher Kane	Christopher Raeburn
Clements Ribeiro	Collette Dinnigan	Comme des Garçons
Commuun	Costello Tagliapietra	Costume National
Creatures of Comfort	Creatures of the Wind	Cushnie et Ochs
Custo Barcelona	Cynthia Rowley

Daks	Damir Doma	Danielle Scutt
Daryl K	David Koma	Dean Quinn
Dennis Basso	Derek Lam	Diane von Furstenberg
Diesel Black Gold	Dion Lee	Dirk Bikkembergs
DKNY	Dolce & Gabbana	Donna Karan
Doo.Ri	Douglas Hannant	Dries Van Noten
Dsquared²	Duro Olowu

Edun	Elie Saab	Elie Tahari
Elizabeth and James	Emilia Wickstead	Emilio de la Morena
Emilio Pucci	Emporio Armani	Erdem
Erin Fetherston	Etro