Imitation of Christ
February 11, 2012 New York
This season featured a collaboration with bespoke tailoring label Doyle Mueser, and the collection was full of fitted pantsuits (think Jerry Hall in the seventies) and sexed-up spins on menswear. There were a couple of fun ideas: Subkoff scooped the arm and shoulder out of a crisp white button-down shirt and paired it with a slit-to-there pencil skirt. And playing on white-tie dressing, she reworked the men's formalwear vest into floor-length satin, adding cool grosgrain belt details in back. The collection as a whole, however, was a bit more gimmick and Gatsby-era romp than real magic.