Minutes before the start of her Fall presentation—which had a campy magic show theme—Tara Subkoff was in full-on stage director mode. "Pretend that you're in The Artist!" she urged the models, who were encouraged to vamp it up in their role as magician's assistants. "Can you try doing a dramatic reveal and twirl with the cape?" The Imitation of Christ designer, after all, loves the theatrical side of fashion, and her clothes often have a costumey quality about them.

This season featured a collaboration with bespoke tailoring label Doyle Mueser, and the collection was full of fitted pantsuits (think Jerry Hall in the seventies) and sexed-up spins on menswear. There were a couple of fun ideas: Subkoff scooped the arm and shoulder out of a crisp white button-down shirt and paired it with a slit-to-there pencil skirt. And playing on white-tie dressing, she reworked the men's formalwear vest into floor-length satin, adding cool grosgrain belt details in back. The collection as a whole, however, was a bit more gimmick and Gatsby-era romp than real magic.