For Fall, Jill Stuart channeled "the dark, magical world of Nick Cave's women." Speaking backstage before today's show, she reeled off a list of the singer's sometime collaborators and lovers, including PJ Harvey, Lydia Lunch, and his wife, Susie Bick. "They all have this mysterious nonchalance about them," she said.

The designer achieved this kind of noir charm with rich floral-embroidered lace (seen on the opening long-sleeve frock worn by current campaign model, Daphne Groeneveld), berry-hue chinoiserie silks, and vampy patent platform boots. While this lineup was a cool departure from Stuart's typically sunny fare, she never lost sight of her ultrafeminine customer base. Youthful yet prim-collar peplum tops and oversize schoolgirl peacoats kept the look identifiably lighthearted.