Josie Natori insists that her three-season-old ready-to-wear line has the "same DNA" as her signature lingerie collection, which marks its 35th anniversary this year. But beyond the embroidery and lace, the designer's contemporary clothing proves to be a richer, more exotic beast. Leaving behind last season's Indochine inspiration, Natori chose this time to focus on the colors and terrain of the Mongolian desert. The verdict? Traveling north was a good choice.

The looks at today's presentation, which were styled by Annabel Tollman, offered something meatier and more textured than the jersey gowns and simple jackets from Spring. Kimono-style wrap dresses and sequined maxi skirts were paired with imperial red clutches; high-heel boots with embroidered lace appliqué matched cocoon coats with the same detailing. For a more structured look, belted tops constructed of perforated leather were tucked into jacquard skirts. Natori also expanded upon her jewelry, this time using semiprecious stones such as amethyst and smoked quartz to make necklaces that did double duty as belts. The best look? The finale's long black gown with a sheer, beaded back that was sexy, sophisticated, and a far cry from a set of lace underwear.