March 02, 2012 Paris
The designer mutated fundamental menswear codes. Everything from pinstripes to Prince of Wales checks, Oxford shoes to riding boots, camel coats to military capes—to create bold new forms. A trenchcoat became a funnel-neck cape; cuffed pants were opened out into the trailing tails of a pinstriped jacket. The ingenuity of such pieces was practically confounding.
Equally confounding was the passage of dévoréd, flocked, latticed apronlike dresses that closed the show. Colored in rose and mustard and burgundy, they had a deconstructed dustbowl-chic feel. That might suggest another of Junya's outsider analyses of Americana. As in, you put together the mutation and the deconstruction and you've got yourself a thumbnail of a society in the throes of collapse.