Jasmin Shokrian launched her main line ten years ago, and she used her Draft No. 17 collection this season to celebrate the anniversary. The clothes here were self-reflective in a witty way: Shokrian used trompe l'oeil-like color blocking on shift dresses to suggest old silhouettes and created a similar effect using sheer overlays on blouses. (A "Xerox" technique, she explained.) In essence, she was quoting herself.

But then, Shokrian is always sort of quoting herself: As a designer, she hews very close to her signatures, such as circular patternmaking, geometric color, and loose, cropped trouser silhouettes. This collection featured all of the above. But it was also atypically expansive, thanks largely to Shokrian's new emphasis on outerwear—a wool duster and burgundy anorak were particularly striking—and her focused detailing. To wit, the leather tie on a pair of karate pants, the petal collar on a button-down, or the slit up the back of a silk tee. She also turned out one seriously cool evening dress—a loose-fitting job in red that was cut down the front, up the leg, and along the side to make for a much sexier item than its shrugged-on silhouette would suggest. All in all, this collection proved that, after ten years, Shokrian hasn't run out of new tricks.