Kimberly Ovitz
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 9, 2012
By Alison Baenen
If every unsmiling girl in a motorcycle jacket is compared to Lisbeth Salander this week, it will be enough to make the biggest Steig Larsson fan turn to violence. But hey, it's still early, right? In a phone call a few days before her show, Kimberly Ovitz revealed that she had been inspired by warriors this season—and who better embodies a modern-day warrior than Larsson's disciplined and vengeful heroine? The hacker would have fit right in among Ovitz's all-black-clad crew of toughies, though she would have stuck with the collection's structured outerwear and drawn the line at the draped dresses.That divide marked the polarities at play—structure versus fluidity. They both came through in the moto jackets, which evinced a relaxed, lived-in drape despite their heft. Less successful was a knit body-con dress with armorlike embellishment that fell awkwardly between hard and soft. A gauzy chiffon column in white printed with a shock of wolf fur toed the line with much more sophistication. The best looks combined a mix of textures and tones: layered under a chunky oatmeal knit, a fluid olive jersey dress with a black faux fur necklace slung over one shoulder like an artillery belt was arresting and wearable. Sexy and fresh, it more than held its own against the hacker chic.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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