February 08, 2012 New York
That divide marked the polarities at play—structure versus fluidity. They both came through in the moto jackets, which evinced a relaxed, lived-in drape despite their heft. Less successful was a knit body-con dress with armorlike embellishment that fell awkwardly between hard and soft. A gauzy chiffon column in white printed with a shock of wolf fur toed the line with much more sophistication. The best looks combined a mix of textures and tones: layered under a chunky oatmeal knit, a fluid olive jersey dress with a black faux fur necklace slung over one shoulder like an artillery belt was arresting and wearable. Sexy and fresh, it more than held its own against the hacker chic.