If every unsmiling girl in a motorcycle jacket is compared to Lisbeth Salander this week, it will be enough to make the biggest Steig Larsson fan turn to violence. But hey, it's still early, right? In a phone call a few days before her show, Kimberly Ovitz revealed that she had been inspired by warriors this season—and who better embodies a modern-day warrior than Larsson's disciplined and vengeful heroine? The hacker would have fit right in among Ovitz's all-black-clad crew of toughies, though she would have stuck with the collection's structured outerwear and drawn the line at the draped dresses.

That divide marked the polarities at play—structure versus fluidity. They both came through in the moto jackets, which evinced a relaxed, lived-in drape despite their heft. Less successful was a knit body-con dress with armorlike embellishment that fell awkwardly between hard and soft. A gauzy chiffon column in white printed with a shock of wolf fur toed the line with much more sophistication. The best looks combined a mix of textures and tones: layered under a chunky oatmeal knit, a fluid olive jersey dress with a black faux fur necklace slung over one shoulder like an artillery belt was arresting and wearable. Sexy and fresh, it more than held its own against the hacker chic.