Karen Walker
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 13, 2012
By Maya Singer
Karen Walker was definitely the envy of New York fashion week today: As the designer explained before her show this afternoon, she'd wrapped up preparations a day early, and treated herself to ten—yes, ten—hours of sleep. That's the kind of rest pretty much every other designer dreams about, or would if they ever had the chance to go to bed.Walker's relaxed pre-show state speaks to more than the fact that she lucked into a fashion week lie-in, however. As the collection she showed today proved, yet again, Karen Walker is a designer entirely at ease with her brand; season after season, she settles into its slightly offbeat, sweet tomboy idiom like it's an old pair of slippers. This season, bouncing way off the Jules Verne novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea , she added grace notes of bourgeois Victoriana and Brian Jones-esque peacock mod to her signature look.
In practice, the Victoriana translated into ruffled collars and trim naval notes of natty wool bouclé and gold hardware; and a fair amount of gold fabric. Boxy coats and jackets in a gold wool-blend material with a black undertone were particularly good, as were the pieces in a brighter gold wallpaper flock. The mod end of the spectrum was capably represented by A-line dresses, paisley prints, and Chelsea boots. Fuzzy sweaters and Walker-signature boyish trousers in yellow and orangy red gave the whole thing a modern pop. It was an eclectic mix of ideas, but Walker tied them together seamlessly..
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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