February 08, 2012 New York
Wearstler's collection just turned one, so it's no surprise that she is still defining her niche. Prints, colors, and textures have counted for a lot since the beginning, but the sweet sensibility that characterized her debut a year ago has for the most part been replaced by eccentricity, edginess, and more than a twinge of nostalgia for the eighties. Wearstler launched denim this season, but you won't find basic blue jeans at her Melrose Avenue shop. Instead, think acid wash in six different colors. Knits are new for Fall, too, and, again, the same rule applies. There were yarn-fringed shoulders and a blue and black pattern inspired by a vintage tapestry she owns. Even an otherwise plain cashmere V-neck came in searing yellow.
In a savvy bit of timing with the upcoming Costume Institute show dedicated in part to Elsa Schiaparelli, Wearstler inserted some surreal motifs into the lineup. A burnout sweatshirt in an abstracted lip pattern might've been the simplest, easiest thing about the collection. It was also the best.