Kelly Wearstler
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 9, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
Kelly Wearstler has a new book coming out this summer featuring seven recent interiors projects. But at a presentation of her Fall ready-to-wear line, she admitted that she's scaled back her decorating work somewhat. Fashion, as any designer will tell you, is a full-time job.Wearstler's collection just turned one, so it's no surprise that she is still defining her niche. Prints, colors, and textures have counted for a lot since the beginning, but the sweet sensibility that characterized her debut a year ago has for the most part been replaced by eccentricity, edginess, and more than a twinge of nostalgia for the eighties. Wearstler launched denim this season, but you won't find basic blue jeans at her Melrose Avenue shop. Instead, think acid wash in six different colors. Knits are new for Fall, too, and, again, the same rule applies. There were yarn-fringed shoulders and a blue and black pattern inspired by a vintage tapestry she owns. Even an otherwise plain cashmere V-neck came in searing yellow.
In a savvy bit of timing with the upcoming Costume Institute show dedicated in part to Elsa Schiaparelli, Wearstler inserted some surreal motifs into the lineup. A burnout sweatshirt in an abstracted lip pattern might've been the simplest, easiest thing about the collection. It was also the best.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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