Lacoste
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 11, 2012
By Tim Blanks
The runes suggest there's a waft of Andre Courreges' Pop style in the air. Felipe Oliveira Baptista certainly seemed downwind of it with his Fall collection for Lacoste, which made a feature of abbreviated rugby dresses that were ski-suit lean over tights whose side stripes made the silhouette look even leaner. Skiwear was, in fact, one of Baptista's inspirations—specifically, the uniforms Lacoste designed for the French national team in 1966. So there was a sleek downhill aerodynamism to the geometric graphics that helped define the collection. The zips, too: They were a key detail. Sleeves zipped open to create an attenuated cape-like effect, particularly striking in black leather.But Baptista had also found pictures of a 1930s mountain motoring expedition in Lacoste's archives, so there was a subtle retro theme threading through his mondo moderno. It was most obvious in the menswear, but it also emerged in ski sweaters reconfigured with rows of Lacoste crocodiles, or pieces that were lightly quilted like something you'd see in an old photo, or the long skirts with flared hems. A lattice print was actually a thirties tweed writ large.
What united Baptista's inspirations was his ongoing commitment to the urbanization of Lacoste. The muted color palette—blues, grays, and whites—was concrete and steel. Camel and red accents were classically classy.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Uniqueness United Bamboo -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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