"I have a feminine heart," Limi Feu said fiercely, as she pounded her chest. Then she dissolved into hoots of laughter. She is, after all, a designer whose collections have often been based on a gender-neutral, teddy-girl proposition. So her latest show, with the Marilyn Monroe-ish fluffiness of its hair and makeup, felt like a step forward—or at least, to some other place.

"The fifties, romantic, feminine," she said. OK, if you say so, Limi. The opening looks had a convent-girl severity, with a touch of blush pink to add inconvenient sensuality, but then that bulky-cocoon Edwardian thing that blights Japanese design insinuated itself into the silhouette. It was a blessed relief when Limi dropped in some fiercely corseted looks to restrict her voluminous white poet shirts. Better yet when an army green subtext snuck in. It is exactly that kind of unpredictable left-field touch that gives her collections the kick to carry you through the inevitable asymmetric, funereal longueurs. And if the only feminine heart that army green brings to mind is Private Benjamin's, then Limi may be on the right track after all.