February 11, 2012 New York
The palette called to mind the patina that construction metals acquire over time—deep rust, darker magenta, and saturated blacks and grays. From afar, the surface of a pomegranate-pink tiered fil coupé dress looked like flowers; at closer range, it resembled patches of peeling rust. Befitting a collection inspired by urban buildings, the silhouette was attenuated and lean. Pronounced seaming gave shape to the clothes, but in a nod to Calatrava's swooping, soaring structures, woven fabrics created the effect of undulating lines. Coats were collarless and dresses' subtle pleats allowed for plenty of movement. For cocktail hour—or a lucky girl's prom—a classic silk cloque dress in ivory had chic linebacker's shoulders: They were sparklingly embellished with cool metal embroidery and pearls. In the past, some of Rose's pieces have suffered from too heavy a hand. Fall's restraint made for a solid foundation.