The rarely umbilical connection between Marc Jacobs' two collections was made even less so today by a Marc by Marc Jacobs show that literally scoured away every physical trace of the extravagant melancholia of last night's signature presentation. Not one solitary shred remained of Rachel Feinstein's extraordinary set in the Lexington Avenue Armory. True, it's always been that way with Jacobs' dual presentations, but there seemed something especially brutal about the way the fragile mood of one show was so rapidly unhinged by the stentorian stomp of another.

Brutal, but also significant, in that the collection today had a dark, martial theme. Frederic Sanchez's soundtrack was all Front 242 and Public Image Ltd's This Is What You Want…This Is What You Get, marching music for a new model army. The shoes were flat boots, the headgear was little drummer boy hats, the men wore military coats and felt officer's pants, the women were clad in somber wives-at-the-front dresses with stiff black underskirts peeking out below dark floral prints. Of course, that wasn't the whole story. The strictness was softened by outbreaks of bouclé, mohair, Lurex, lamé, and perforated velvet, which, like the sparkly-buckled pilgrim shoes in which Jacobs took his bow, pointed to pleasures beyond the regimented pale. Maybe the designer was, after all, reiterating last night's message: In the end, fashion is all about fantasy.