Mandy Coon loves bats, so much so that she was delighted to find them in her hotel—a renovated Spanish colonial—on a recent vacation to Nicaragua. The country's flora and fauna provided the inspiration for Fall, and the collection's sole print was derived from the pattern on a moth's wings.

In her showroom, Coon explained that her cold-weather collections always have a dose of Man Ray and Helmut Newton, too. That came through in the nipped waists and slightly roomy pleated pants. Pleats were a recurring motif. A short navy circle skirt with a panel of black leather pleats was sexy and fun, the best kind of take on naughty schoolgirl. The moth wing print had a kaleidoscope effect on a paneled stretch and knit wool dress; worn with a detachable peplum (a no-brainer accessory) it narrowed the frame and added length—good things, most wearers would agree. When it came to positives, the collection was full of them.