The big message at Miu Miu was pantsuits. "After years of skirts, they're the one thing I find exciting at the moment," Miuccia Prada said after her show. She wore the black astrakhan two-piecer with the purple crystals that Magdalena Frackowiak modeled in her Prada show two weeks ago. Fresh off his own second show of the season, Marc Jacobs offered her congratulations and told her how great she looked.

On the runway, the cuts were more butch: Oversize men's jackets and high-waisted floods were paired with seventies collared shirts, frilly ties, and clashing ascots, and came accessorized with chunky belts and even chunkier loafers. As for the suit fabrics, they ranged from street-ready solids with a bit of a sharkskin sheen to only-for-the-bravest Art Nouveau-ish florals. Some jackets had this season's capelike back.

Will Miuccia's pantsuits generate excitement in Miu Miu fans? Tough to say; they love their dresses. Then again, the matching-print pantsuit is one of Fall's key trends. Either way, the show ended with an insurance plan: tiny A-line dresses affixed with mirrored appliqués big enough to see your reflection in.