February 18, 2012 London
Williamson's cocktail dresses are his bread and butter. Here they came in two shapes, a great straight-cut organza T-shirt with those circuit sequins, sometimes turned slightly more casual layered over a long-sleeve top. On the sexier, more structured side was a silhouette with slashes at the ribcage and a skirt that was cut into and paneled like a machine. It was an idea that reached its full potential in a blessedly unadorned but sparkly midnight jacquard.
Williamson is celebrating his 15th anniversary this year, which perhaps accounts for his futuristic focus. At times it was a clunky marriage of worlds—see the brocade skirt pieced with gold leather and worn with a Star Trek-like turquoise turtleneck and organza T-shirt. A gold silk blazer over ice blue trousers, in contrast, hit the right note. When it came to evening, Williamson splashed swishing gowns in baroque prints with great zigs of bright comic-book color. It made his models look like superheroines, about to take flight to the ball.