Add Nicolas Andreas Taralis to the growing number of designers turned on by Asian martial arts this season. Maybe it's the unsettling times we live in, but everyone's talking about protection. "Kurosawa meets Blade Runner" was the shorthand Taralis used to describe coats and jackets with quilted lapels that called to mind both karate gis and obis. The cut of his tailoring, as usual, was close to the body, but for Fall, it's also asymmetrical. Some pieces were quite literally cut in half, with straps buckling around the side of the torso that was missing. It's not easy to reinvent the jacket, but with this idea, Taralis managed to give it a sexy new life as an evening piece.

What was happening below the waist in this show wasn't quite as imaginative or as successful. Many of the models who wore skirts or dresses had to carry them in their hands because they were so long they would trip otherwise. The look just didn't jibe with Taralis' talking point backstage. The fact that the skirts and dresses were so often sheer will compound the problems they present to retailers. In the past, Taralis has proven himself quite handy with denim and leather—it would've been nice to see some street-worthy pants with all those tough-looking toppers.