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Nicole Miller

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NEW YORK, February 10, 2012
By Maya Singer
Bell-bottoms. A-line minis. Vests. Suede, velvet, and patchwork leather. At first blush, you'd have figured that the era Nicole Miller was channeling at today's show was the Sgt. Pepper-era sixties. But not so fast: The snake of fashion reference is set to tuck into a meal of its own tail. Upon inspection, this show revealed itself to be a throwback to the nineties—specifically, that decade's thrift-shop retread of the late sixties and early seventies. Another random thought, jotted down at this evening's show: "Gack! Handkerchief hems! Gypsy sleeves! Not yet!"

Still, the collection had charm, despite the bruising memories of those boho hems and sleeves. Miller updated her sixties-by-way-of-the-nineties looks with a jolting application of digital print, most appealingly in a bright tweed pixelated pattern liberally applied to velvet. Elsewhere, she did well with her minidress and shorts in patchwork leather, and with the collection's alpaca-trimmed outerwear. All in all, a pastiche, but a successful one.

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