No. 21
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 22, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
Alessandro Dell'Acqua is busily going about re-creating himself as a designer for the street-style crowd. His No. 21 collection is just over two years old, and what defines it is its young, fresh mind-set. Hems are miniskirt-short above towering platform sandals; this season's requisite bomber jacket made multiple appearances in tweed; and an otherwise straightforward black dress came embellished in gobstopper-size jewels at the waist. The irony here is that he was apparently inspired by the idea of Queen Elizabeth in her garden. The pieces that will reap the most "I love that"s, followed quickly by a "Whose is it?" are the hologram paillette-encrusted sweatshirt and carwash-flap skirt. Dell'Acqua's collection is just under-the-radar enough to retain its anonymous quality. Which may be another way of saying that it hasn't quite fully realized its own identity yet.Elsewhere, Dell'Acqua revisited some of the lingerie tropes he liked to use when he designed under his own name. Those of us who predate the street-style phenomenon recall his fondness for exposed bra tops and guipure lace. He used the latter to charming effect on a minty green slipdress. Ultimately, though, this collection felt a bit too lightweight to redress No. 21's lingering anonymity issue.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Uniqueness United Bamboo -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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