A sticker on Oscar de la Renta's show program was the first clue we were in for something different. It read "#THEBOARD: Submit inspiration to the board for our next collection. Oscar and his assistants will be watching live in the studio for new content daily." The clothes, like the invitation to contribute ideas, seemed pitched at a new generation.

The youthful feeling came through in any number of ways: the mostly short, full-skirted silhouettes; the baby pinks and powder blues; the ribbons affixed with gobstopper crystals that the models wore in their hair. But mostly it was the photo prints of jewels that gave this show its irreverent streak. They were facsimiles of the real bijoux that dangled from pieces like a Nile blue silk faille dress or a black double-face cashgora, but blown up to positively eye-popping proportions. Cheeky.

Don't get us wrong; these clothes were still plenty precious—as is the de la Renta way. And he didn't neglect to include skirtsuits and twinsets for the Park Avenue set, either, but they weren't the focus. The playful mood continued into evening, where the emphasis was on cocktail dresses. The draped tulle gowns at the end were more debutante than doyenne. Oscar turns 80 this year. Eighty years young.