Two seasons in, it was tempting to wonder whether Humberto Leon and Carol Lim's commitment to Kenzo would suck any of the creative energy out of Opening Ceremony. But as the brand's latest outing proves, O.C. commands a seemingly bottomless reservoir of ideas. This wasn't necessarily a standout collection, but it was so full of the usual charm and so well stocked with desirable pieces that it would be mean-spirited to complain.
Typically, there was a lot going on here, with the key themes being chunky knits, felted wools, quilted and puffer-style outerwear inspired by Patagonia, sporty piping and color blocking, and a wide variety of metallics, including some very good metallic leathers. The real story, though, was texture. The Opening Ceremony team has developed a fetish for all things nubby and fuzzy: Fur made an appearance in the classic O.C. flare coat, and there were tufted fabrics everywhere. One of Lim and Leon's more interesting ideas was to use a fuzzy fleece material in tailored pieces such as a body-hugging dress with a mesh inset. The tactility extended to those chunky knits as well as to shiny brocades and pieces dappled with coinlike paillettes. Meanwhile, O.C. continued to explore Argentina, its country of choice this year, via gaucho pants and a winning painterly print abstracted from an aerial photograph of the Andes. All in all, this collection may have erred a little too much toward "cute"—Lim and Leon may indeed be saving their more sophisticated creations for Kenzo. Then again, given that Opening Ceremony just opened its second store in Japan, that was probably a canny, or perhaps kawaii, choice.
- Fashion Shows
- People + Parties
- Trends + Shopping