Ohne Titel
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 13, 2012
By Meenal Mistry
Count Ohne Titel's Alexa Adams and Flora Gill among the several designers playing with the idea of protection this week: clothing as shield against harsher elements. Underlining the idea of cocooning, smooth black caps, a collaboration with Albertus Swanepoel, were pulled low over models' eyes while faces were often half buried in funnel-like circular scarves.After venturing in a more colorful and feminine direction last season, Adams and Gill proclaimed a return to something tougher and architectural. The overall look was sleeker, harkening back to their urban-warrior roots and the fierce luxury of tops pieced out of shearling, leather, and fur that snapped insiders to attention a few seasons ago.But there was evidence here of attempting to bridge the difference. The zippered jacket on the first look out, for instance, had the feel of an armored doublet, but turned a bit sweeter with a pleated skirt.
Keeping to a tight color palette of mostly black and white—an idea inspired by textile artist Sheila Hicks, who wove newspaper into some of her work—the designers used their wicked knitting skills to create great graphic jacquard textures, an element that was the highlight of this show. Knitting nerds take note: The technique required a special machine. Another sweater-y standout: The poor-boy-style knit with rippling stripes in a cardigan and calf-length dress.
When it came to wovens, the duo continued their successful run of slouchy pull-on pants, here in a great feathery animal print, and tailored jackets. In the end, it was only the silk dresses, like the two that closed the show, that felt like a work in progress. Call it a case of stiff competition.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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