After Sophie Albou completed her men's collection in January, she found herself trying on the jackets and coats, and rather liking what she saw. Et voilà, the seed of her women's collection was born. "I thought it was cool," Albou said backstage. "Why do we need to do something so complicated for women?" Why, indeed.

Around the runway, every square inch of wall was covered in a photograph of woods in full autumnal glory. Albou cited the arboreal Edens around Paris, like the Bois de Boulogne, as a source for the rich auburn and ocher shades, but overall the look distinctly paid homage to the English countryside.

Albou mixed mannish tweed coats and trousers and sweeping trenchcoats with sequins, jeweled satins, and ditzy floral prints. Sure, it's not revolutionary, but her spin had its own fizzy fun, as seen in the pop of a velvet jacket and baggy pants in hunter's orange, or in subtle but effective hits of leopard. But what made this a solidly good collection was the fact that all that tailoring—jackets with strong shoulders and skinny sleeves and slouchy, hip-slung trousers—simply looked great, both well-fitting and well-made.

Compared to last season's motorcycle mama, there was a welcome sense of polish. And it felt more in line with the trends and what girls want, or will be wanting when September rolls around. Pajama silks? Check. Baggy trousers? Check. All that's left is for Albou to open the New York boutique she's been planning for ages.