February 14, 2012 New York
There was a sort of sharp, clinical Gattica glamour in the HD-sharp silhouettes of skirt suits, shifts, and coats, many drawn in at the waist by clear Perspex belts. And there was, not surprisingly, a focus on technical fabrics. That's a direction that can easily go awry, like a shift dress with crystal beading all sandwiched in PVC or another entirely made from plastic-coated wool. (Be honest, when's the last time you wanted to wear plastic?) But there were some beautifully made and quite luxurious clothes that made the point more subtly: a lovely reversible coat made of ivory leather bonded with bouclé, for example, or another chic coat, created with a needle-punch technique, that seamlessly melded stripes of camel wool and mohair with a nubby tan bouclé.
Overall, it was more work than play. Philosophy is known for a good party dress, but there were few here. The many who loved last season's beaded twenties romp may find themselves slightly disappointed on this go-around.