3.1 Phillip Lim
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NEW YORK, February 13, 2012
By Meenal Mistry
Nothing overtly said, "Ka-Pow!" but today's show found Phillip Lim kicking around the idea of superheroes, a theme he had started to explore in his pre-fall collection. "It's this idea of modern-day superheroes who are walking around us every day," the designer said after the show.If that sounded slightly abstract, the collection was largely grounded in reality. Lim did open with a cape, but the resounding message of his mostly monochromatic and minimal parade of sleek jackets, deconstructed sturdy ribbed knits, sharply creased trousers, and great tailored coats was simply this: strong clothes for strong women. (Having said that, which of us doesn't believe in the power of clothing to produce something akin to a phone booth transformation?)
Lim also had ideas about duality. There was dark versus light in the punchy graphic interplay of pieces delineated in black and white, and hard versus soft in the weaponlike pointy toes of ladylike pumps. A smoke machine (apparently turned to 11) set a noir-ish stage, telling you all wasn't as it seemed. Nothing evil was lurking, and, quite frankly, nothing too surprising, just the slightly surreal twist of cardigans turned back to front or upside down, along with collarless coats with indented flat collars and trompe l'oeil metal collars.
The strains of "This Is a Man's World" began to play mid-show, though it could have looped throughout. There was only one look that even approximated something cocktail-appropriate. Don't even superheroines need a night off every now and then?
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Opening Ceremony Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Uniqueness United Bamboo -
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Wayne Wendy Nichol Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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