What stands out in memory about last season's Pedro Lourenço collection is how three-dimensional it was: Stiff collars reached up to the ears, waists were accented with squares of beads, and skirts were made from swishy fringe. For Fall, all of the young Brazilian's work is on the flat plane.

A black coat was bisected from one bold shoulder to the opposite hem by a great curving swoop of bright yellow leather, and a long-sleeve dress with a simple basic structure was pieced together from brick red leather, a matte black material, silk organza, and a silvery aluminum organza (not unlike the "ghost fabric" from Christopher Kane's Spring show). Lourenço must've driven his patternmakers crazy to get results so striking.

In keeping with the two-dimensional nature of his embellishments, Lourenço made prints—TV static, plaids, horse heads—based on the work of the Russian video artist Kon Trubkovich. Printed on two layers of fabric, they created dizzying optical effects as the models walked by in their asymmetric dresses.

This new outing shows Lourenço's growing commercial savvy. Minus all of last season's elaborate constructions, these clothes will ring up for less at the register. But what really resonated were two coats. Black leather puffers in the front and charcoal wool flannel from the back, with fur trim at the collar, they got the ambition/desirability equation just right.