Backstage before the Ports 1961
show, Fiona Cibani distilled the season's message: "Strong, but not aggressive." Using simple, straightforward silhouettes and rich textures, Cibani showed a focused collection that derived its strength from its luxurious fabrics. The first model out wore a lustrous, boxy, color-blocked top that curved away from the body, just skimming the long cashmere sweater it was layered over. Throughout, cashmere sweaters and dresses made up the looks' foundations; they added nicely to the texture play. The shiny opening top and similar pieces that followed were fine, if slightly unflattering. Better was a series of coats and tops in sheared mink. Understated but still special, they had the good-life quality this label is known for.