Spring/Summer 2012 was a breakthrough season for Peter Pilotto, and you could hardly blame designers Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto for wanting to repeat its success. There were times, though, early on in today's show, when you wondered whether Pilotto and De Vos were repeating themselves a bit too much: The first looks that appeared on the catwalk this morning came off like stretched-out, streamlined versions of last season's clothes. Even the prints appeared identical. But as the show progressed, and new ideas integrated themselves into the collection, you began to appreciate the wisdom of the Pilotto boys' decision to begin with the overtly familiar, and build. This collection articulated a thought process and affirmed the designers' steady, incremental approach.

The new ideas, this time out, mainly manifested themselves in print—the Peter Pilotto stock-in-trade. Inspired by recent trips to Asia, they created a pattern based on Japanese "light trucks," vehicles studded with thousands of lights, and another one abstracted from Chinese opera masks. The latter had a floral sensuousness, and made for some uncomplicatedly gorgeous garments; the light-truck print was trickier, but it looked good set off by swathes of deep blue velvet. Along with attenuating their silhouette, Pilotto and De Vos also developed last season's wrapped and haltered bodices by playing with more intricate crisscross and cutout effects. And there was another update in the beading of the garments—a three-dimensionalizing of the print, as Pilotto put it—that followed on last season's more dappled embroidery. The most interesting new ideas in the collection, however, came in the form of its furs and puffer coats. The laminated wool puffers were done in the signature Pilotto prints and made in collaboration with the Austrian outerwear brand Schneiders; the fox furs came vibrantly striped, and they were really striking. All in all, this collection didn't set forth any dramatic new proposition, but it was a confident elaboration of the Pilotto look.