February 19, 2012 London
The new ideas, this time out, mainly manifested themselves in print—the Peter Pilotto stock-in-trade. Inspired by recent trips to Asia, they created a pattern based on Japanese "light trucks," vehicles studded with thousands of lights, and another one abstracted from Chinese opera masks. The latter had a floral sensuousness, and made for some uncomplicatedly gorgeous garments; the light-truck print was trickier, but it looked good set off by swathes of deep blue velvet. Along with attenuating their silhouette, Pilotto and De Vos also developed last season's wrapped and haltered bodices by playing with more intricate crisscross and cutout effects. And there was another update in the beading of the garments—a three-dimensionalizing of the print, as Pilotto put it—that followed on last season's more dappled embroidery. The most interesting new ideas in the collection, however, came in the form of its furs and puffer coats. The laminated wool puffers were done in the signature Pilotto prints and made in collaboration with the Austrian outerwear brand Schneiders; the fox furs came vibrantly striped, and they were really striking. All in all, this collection didn't set forth any dramatic new proposition, but it was a confident elaboration of the Pilotto look.