Reem Acra
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 13, 2012
By Alison Baenen
The show began with an impossible proposition: Keep the descending swarms of showgoers off the uncovered runway. A human wall of volunteers and a man with a Swiffer did their valiant best, but more than one audience member's heel scuffed the catwalk before the lights went down. Why all the fuss? Who knows, but Acra presumably wanted a gleaming surface for her girls to walk on, an acceptable enough reason for a collection based on "feminine power." That phrase was Acra's, issued backstage, where she explained that she wanted to convey a sense of power through strong, second-skin silhouettes.For day, Acra got her slinky message across with a strong-shouldered, nipped-waist leather jacket and matching pencil skirt in wine red. Snug, embellished skirt suits in metallic tweed and herringbone hewed close to the body. Another leather jacket had the contained volume of a puffer coat, but it cinched the waist, flared out to a peplum, and flaunted a high, protective collar—not a coat you'd want to mess with.
Some of the air was released from the silhouette for night. A few Deco-beaded flapper dresses slid by, welcome respites from all the hourglasses. But there was more skin to be seen, and three gowns featured major peekaboo cutouts that slashed the body with wide zigzags. The trompe l'oeil effect was more disturbing than delightful, and would likely pose problems for anyone with a décolletage. There was a red-carpet winner, however, in the show's closer: a one-shouldered silk crepe gown, taut across the bodice, that opened to a sheer, beaded skirt allowing for plenty of movement. Clothes that let you walk where you want sounds like feminine power to us.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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