"Normally for Fall we dive into print and pattern and color," Rachel Comey said over the phone the day before her show. "This time, I pulled all of that out and cleared the air." Comey girls, take a deep breath: The charmingly off-kilter quality that characterizes the designer's work is still in evidence, but a new straightforwardness lent a maturity to the new collection. Classic silhouettes came in neutral shades, and a parade of LBDs finished the show.

With prints taking less of a starring role, Comey sprang for fabrics from specialty mills and called on unusual fabric treatments to take their place. Perforated cotton and wool felt—hole-punched with a laser—lent a lightness to tops and bodices, while the shiny plastic finish on a sexy, full-skirted dress provided the right kick of Comey quirk. The few prints and jolts of color, like a nubbly coat in caution orange and a dress covered in attenuated hearts in shocking pink, were swift visual punches that landed. Aside from a few unflattering sack silhouettes, this collection was solidly retail-friendly, a boon given that Comey revealed that she expanded on the higher end of her price point this season (see: those specialty mills). As the designer's vision matures, it follows that her customers will grow with her; if not, there was plenty here to entice a new crop of sophisticated admirers.