"Body-conscious" is not a term we ever thought Reed Krakoff would utter in connection with his designs. But he said it backstage today before a Fall collection that proved to be a subtle yet smart evolution of his signature minimalist style. Now in his fifth season on the runway, Krakoff has discovered the waist. Notably: a cordovan brown polished leather coat nipped in at the midsection before falling in an A-line shape to the knee. It might be the sexiest thing Krakoff's ever done, followed closely by a black python bandeau that gave shape to a chiffon blouse and trousers.

That's not to say he's gone completely hourglass on us. Krakoff still believes in pantsuits, and they worked best here when they stood on their own, without the unnecessary bulk of the cropped, hooded vests he showed with some of them. The two ivory styles toward the end of the show made a big impact. Knits are another important part of his burgeoning business. Fur patches on the sleeves of one and a leather front panel on another upped the special factor.

Two categories were mostly absent on his runway. He showed only three bags in 30 looks—all of them in alligator. And he opted out of cocktail attire and evening dresses entirely. No matter: His daywear held up to the added scrutiny.