As a general matter, Rogan
and Chanel aren't brands with much in common. This season, however, Karl Lagerfeld and Rogan Gregory have found themselves plowing the same furrow, creating collections that are crystal-inspired and knitwear-focused. Weird. Anyway, if Chanel's extravaganza in Paris was the maximalist, über-luxury expression of those themes, the new Rogan collection gave us the affordable, minimalist flip side. The crystal reference was primarily elaborated here via brushstroke prints, the best of which was done in black and white on crepe georgette; Gregory played with layering the print against itself, creating palimpsest effects. That made for several striking pieces. Elsewhere, the standouts were the collection's draped knits, in particular a long, asymmetric skirt, and a clever halter-neck sweater that flashed decorous amounts of skin. Gregory's tailoring was also quite strong this time out, with taut dresses featuring paneled construction and natty takes on outerwear staples such as the trench and frock coat.
In terms of the men's collection, Gregory didn't do much to advance on his signatures. That said, his hemp cotton jerseys will find a lot of takers, and the plaited cotton shawl-neck sweater and low-waist short mac made for nice refinements of his relaxed take on urbanity.