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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 13, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
Just as they did at their first-ever runway show two years ago, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen accessorized their latest collection with flat ribbon sandals. Their clothes have both remained the same and evolved in beautiful ways. The sisters still believe in monochrome dressing; this season they used black, navy, ivory, and a range of browns. They still love the look of a clean, unfussy silhouette. It doesn't get any less complicated, or more elegant, than a strapless cotton-silk cady away-from-the-body dress with a slash pocket high on the torso. And luxury remains an essential part of the brand DNA. On several of the looks they treated fur as a textile, using mink as a bib trim on a bishop-sleeve chiffon blouse, or "knitting" a ribbed sweater from the stuff (actually, the fur was sheared in panels to create the ribbed effect). A double-face hammered cashmere coat with alligator trim and pocket details was equally plush—not flashy in the least, but nonetheless quite special.Asked beforehand for some words on the new collection, Mary-Kate said, "It's about a feeling, really." Two years ago we called that feeling "utterly simple and anonymously chic." Now, we'd add serene, even timeless. Chaste is too strong a word, especially with the sheer black chiffon, so we'll stick with refined.
Bonus points, then, for the setting: the historic Bemelmans Bar at the Carlyle Hotel, complete with live piano accompaniment and breakfast goodies on every table.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
















