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Ruffian

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NEW YORK, February 11, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
Last season it was Saratoga Springs. For Fall, Brian Wolk and Claude Morais visited a different kind of horse country: the English countryside. For a second, we could've sworn we were in Downton Abbey, what with one model's long, narrow skirt in black wool flannel, matching smoking jacket, and frilly white blouse. But the impression didn't last long. Chalk that up to her thoroughly modern purple velvet manicure; those nails are going to drive the beauty bloggers wild.

There was a lot to like about the clothes here, too. Two parallel rows of black buttons down the back of a blue-gray wool melton chesterfield made it a coat to remember. On the sportier side, an olive green wool twill field coat with leather shoulders had an appealing A-line swing. And a hunting jacket in glen plaid with patch pockets in a contrasting check was a reminder that the Ruffian boys are snappy tailors. The feminine side of their formula wasn't as fully realized. A stretch velvet dress, for instance, felt out of step with the rest of the collection, but there was on-message charm in a cameo pink blouse with white lace collar and cuffs.

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