Steven Alan
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 8, 2012
By Maya Singer
The unemployment rate may be falling, but to judge from Steven Alan's presentation this morning, we're heading into a depression. Alan's Fall collections for both men and women riffed on thirties-era aesthetics, with an emphasis on worn tailoring and a gray and sepia-toned palette straight out of Dorothea Lange.The cited inspiration was Diego Rivera—another icon of the up-with-labor, bread line era. Alan channeled the Rivera influence into newly emphasized handknits made in South America, as well as striped jackets and waistcoats redolent of Mexican blankets. For women, the blanket theme was extrapolated as well, into items like a mid-calf, contrast-striped jersey dress.
The menswear collection saw Alan continuing to develop his dressier pieces—there were soft tailored suits in a variety of interesting fabrications, such as moleskin and washed wool, and narrow trousers with a subtle slouch. Elsewhere, he turned out some nice adaptations of closet staples, such as a navy anorak in leather.
The women's collection, meanwhile, riffed on the men's. Many of the menswear materials repeated themselves, notably the herringbone tweed, while girlier items such as a pleated skort (skort!) and appealing full skirts were executed in mannish checks and foulard prints. Metallic brocade provided a nice counterpoint to the general low-key atmosphere. All in all, there were no real surprises here from Alan, but the collections had a strong, cohesive point of view and boasted lots of salable, easy-to-wear clothes.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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