Sophia Kokosalaki is back in Paris for the second season after a year-and-a-half absence. As of January, she was preparing to do a runway show, but Kokosalaki, like her fellow Londoner Phoebe Philo, is pregnant, and she opted for one-on-one appointments. All the better to understand where the designer is coming from now.

"It's always a mix of Greece and London," she said, describing her new collection. A jumpsuit in black silk that looked like leather evoked London in the early eighties, and a fitted, long-sleeve dress in a metallic lamé tweed looked like London today, but overall we saw more of the designer's roots in this collection. A white silk blouse buttoned up to the collar above a thick leather belt and slim black pants gathered at the ankle was something she saw on a man last summer in Crete, "but with the folklore subtracted." Same goes for a draped white goddess dress that still had an edge: "Everybody's had a go at the poor Grecians," the designer said. "It's important to make it cooler."

Kokosalaki has always been best known for her cocktail dresses, so the daywear felt fresh. Sweaters hand-knit by a Scottish women's collective that she trimmed in leather for added cool factor looked and felt great. And a pair of knit jersey pants had editors asking to place special orders.