The late Loulou de la Falaise has been on George Sharp's mind of late. "She was obviously a style icon for everybody in fashion," he said backstage before his show at the posh Ukrainian Institute of America on the Upper East Side. "She had a way of throwing things on and looking effortless and chic." In the spirit of Loulou, the sweaters were loose and the pants were wide-legged, making for a much different silhouette than the one St. John spokeswoman Kate Winslet was rocking in the front row. (Short, tight, and to-the-point, Winslet's black leather dress was more femme fatale than free spirit.)

Bursts of red and a pop of leopard print in an otherwise subdued palette were two of Sharp's nods to his muse. A black and red color-blocked cashmere sweater fell insouciantly off one shoulder, while a fuzzy, slightly boxy, faux-fur top in the animal print looked cozy and rich paired with elbow-high leather gloves; this season's St. John woman may be nonchalant, but she's still very well appointed. For evening Sharp offered a free-form red satin V-neck gown with deep pockets; on anyone other than a model it might look like a (luxurious) muumuu, but it did capture the mood of effortless elegance Sharp was going for. A long-sleeve, drape-neck gown covered in matte brown paillettes would take more effort to wear, but it would be worth it. Clinging to curves without seeming to, it performed just the sort of sartorial trick de la Falaise would have admired.