collections have seen designers Gabi, Ange, and Adi applying themselves to the task of making their idiosyncratic aesthetic relatively more digestible and commercial. This was not one of those collections. That's not a bad thing: The most intriguing Threeasfour collections always seem to emanate from deep within the designers' private sphere of reference and inspiration. This season was a particularly insular outing: Threeasfour has long been known for its spherical construction, and the new collection saw the designers investigating circularity through varying iterations of arcs, swirls, and whorls. On its own terms, the collection was a smashing success. In the normal terms of a fashion review, it was difficult to evaluate. Were the clothes wearable? Well, yes, insofar as they were worn. Did they relate, in an interesting way, to brewing seasonal trends? Er, not really. Were they expressive of an original point-of-view? Emphatically yes.
There were three key motifs at the show today. One was garments overlaid with a laser-cut leather lace; another was triangle-shaped coats with huge collars that were vaguely suggestive of the kind of thing some nomadic people of the Himalayas might wear for ceremonies. The third theme, and the most fully extrapolated, was to apply three-dimensional shapes to skintight minidresses. The dresses with spirals and curlicues of leather came off as just the kind of compelling but offbeat thing you expect from Threeasfour; the ones with shards of tapestry fabric bearing woodland scenery felt like something new. Were these practical items of clothing? Not so much, but the charm of Threeasfour is their commitment to the possible, rather than the practical.