Siouxsie Sioux turned Swiss Miss. That was the broad outline of Tsumori Chisato's Fall collection, inspired by a holiday in Switzerland. The backdrop of a ski slope was rendered in neon squiggles, and there were bright slashes of color on the high sides of models' back-combed hair.

The clothes merged a DIY spirit with classic après-ski. The punky checkerboard print, mixed with intarsia ski sweaters, looked painted on, and Chisato's new version of the Fair Isle cardie came with naïve little appliquéd flowers, the kind of thing a melancholy but industrious teenager might do in her bedroom.

Then there's Chisato's personal touch, quite literally DIY. Her personal tic was an obsession with the gondola cars of ski lifts, knit into intarsias and lovingly picked out in sequins on a sweater dress. And all the photo prints of chalets, snow-covered treetops, and slopes—on dresses and one fab pair of jeans—were the designer's vacation snaps.

Chisato was a touch less cartoony than she's been in seasons past, but there was no lack of her infectiously charming eye for detail that make her clothes stand out. You aren't likely to find a crocheted V-neck with abstracted evergreen motifs and dotted with tiny crystals like snowflakes. Tropical islands last season, Alpine slopes this one, Tsumori Chisato has been in a peripatetic state of mind. Wherever the next journey takes her, her fans will be ready for its unique crop of souvenirs.