Thakoon
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NEW YORK, February 12, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
At the center of Thakoon Panichgul's Fall mood board was Ed and Nancy Kienholz's installation re-creating Amsterdam's red-light district, The Hoerengracht. The piece gave the designer not only his photo print (neon tube lights) and color palette (red, fuchsia, and raspberry), but also the show's kinky undercurrent. His silhouettes were rooted in the conventional—Audrey Hepburn in her prime was on the mood board, too—but he tweaked them, adding padded hips to accentuate the hourglass curve on a gray knit dress and inserting black leather basket weave, "like a confessional screen," into the bodice of an LBD. A pair of trenchcoats with cutouts at the throat were worn as dresses with nothing underneath.Panichgul has explored this erotic territory before—remember the rose leg prints he did with Laurie Simmons a few years back? This time around, though, the theme gave him a bit of trouble. Knit Mongolian lamb sweaters are a great idea (we're surprised we haven't seen them before), but accompanied by a paper bag-waist skirt, their boxy shape didn't do anything for the models. A ruffle-front jacket and A-line duchesse satin skirt, meanwhile, looked like a relic from Hepburn's heyday. That said, a silk jacquard with hearts of the real and the Valentine variety had a clever charm, and a black leather blazer with a built-in hood? Just plain clever.
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Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elizabeth and James Emilia Wickstead Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Genny Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gregory Parkinson Gucci Guy Laroche -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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ICB Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kanye West Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenneth Cole Collection Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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