At the center of Thakoon Panichgul's Fall mood board was Ed and Nancy Kienholz's installation re-creating Amsterdam's red-light district, The Hoerengracht. The piece gave the designer not only his photo print (neon tube lights) and color palette (red, fuchsia, and raspberry), but also the show's kinky undercurrent. His silhouettes were rooted in the conventional—Audrey Hepburn in her prime was on the mood board, too—but he tweaked them, adding padded hips to accentuate the hourglass curve on a gray knit dress and inserting black leather basket weave, "like a confessional screen," into the bodice of an LBD. A pair of trenchcoats with cutouts at the throat were worn as dresses with nothing underneath.

Panichgul has explored this erotic territory before—remember the rose leg prints he did with Laurie Simmons a few years back? This time around, though, the theme gave him a bit of trouble. Knit Mongolian lamb sweaters are a great idea (we're surprised we haven't seen them before), but accompanied by a paper bag-waist skirt, their boxy shape didn't do anything for the models. A ruffle-front jacket and A-line duchesse satin skirt, meanwhile, looked like a relic from Hepburn's heyday. That said, a silk jacquard with hearts of the real and the Valentine variety had a clever charm, and a black leather blazer with a built-in hood? Just plain clever.