February 11, 2012 New York
Panichgul has explored this erotic territory before—remember the rose leg prints he did with Laurie Simmons a few years back? This time around, though, the theme gave him a bit of trouble. Knit Mongolian lamb sweaters are a great idea (we're surprised we haven't seen them before), but accompanied by a paper bag-waist skirt, their boxy shape didn't do anything for the models. A ruffle-front jacket and A-line duchesse satin skirt, meanwhile, looked like a relic from Hepburn's heyday. That said, a silk jacquard with hearts of the real and the Valentine variety had a clever charm, and a black leather blazer with a built-in hood? Just plain clever.