February 11, 2012 New York
The show was at its best when Hilfiger remixed the various elements of the upper-class equestrienne's world. The quilted suede of a field jacket was fashioned into a slyly sexy skirt with a semi-attached panel of colored leather. Fisherman's cables were printed on silk dresses, and an actual cable-knit sweater came trimmed with quilted suede on the shoulders and little buckles at the sleeves. The highlight? A trio of scarf-printed dresses with bridle motifs that had a loose, seventies sex appeal. They stood apart from various looks that were, by turns, schoolgirl prim or a bit stuffy. When taken piece by piece, the collection's luxurious materials and, yes, precision, were beyond reproach. But after a few strong seasons with this team at Hilfiger—stylist Karl Templer and designer Peter Som—we had gotten used to having a little bit more fun.