Amy Smilovic unabashedly loves the minimal nineties. Backstage before her Fall runway show, the Tibi designer explained how this season she combined her favorite decade—"the Narciso-wearing Gwyneth Paltrow, not the leg-baring Pucci Gwynny"—with the swinging Beatles sixties. A crisp cropped pantsuit in a Catholic schoolgirl tartan plaid, for example, came layered over slim, Celine-esque turtlenecks. Tailored maxi skirts with trouserlike back welt pockets put a nice spin on the still-going menswear phenomenon.

Texture was a big story, and the coolest looks got an extra kick from unexpected fabrics like reflective, jewel-tone polyurethane, Lurex brocade, and matted-down micro-paillettes. In keeping with the label's evolving identity, there was nary a dress in sight here, but based on reported sales, it seems the subtly stylish Tibi customer doesn't mind trading out a flirty frock for a smart pair of pants.