Kitsch makes for an odd title for a Todd Lynn collection. Glancing at the show notes today, you had to wonder what Lynn—a disciplined craftsman who traffics in the emphatically clean—might have to do with, say, Hello Kitty key rings or "Hangin' in there!" cat posters. It was interesting to contemplate. Further study of the show notes revealed that this season the designer was taking inspiration from the wonderfully named Norwegian painter Odd Nerdrum, and by extension his Renaissance-referencing paintings and influential kitsch manifesto. Nerdrum's philosophy on kitsch is too dense to unpack here—Wikipedia it if you like—but it involves an affirmation of the forcefully individual self. That's a take that sits easily with Lynn's look.

The Hello Kitty collection will have to wait for another season, in other words. Today's show was another Lynn exercise—and a particularly strong one—in forceful simplicity. Per usual, the key elements of the collection were strict suiting, architectural draping, and absurdly well-cut leathers; the suiting looked especially good, boasting terrific wide-leg trousers and pencil skirts paired with jackets that were circle-seamed or made with origami folds. The angled leathers were also a clear winner. Lynn's draped pieces were nice, but the only real standout was one burnt orange dress with a dramatic cape effect. His big new idea this season was to make garments faced in different materials, front and back; he made a lot of use of a raffialike jacquard in ocher for these pieces, and the material gave the look punch. It was good to see Lynn working with so much color here, and he used it well. There was also a nice additional texture in the collection's decayed lace, a fabric that made too few appearances on the runway today. On the whole, though, this was a top-notch collection for Lynn. The clothes didn't expand his brand's vocabulary too much, but they reaffirmed his acknowledged strengths.