February 11, 2012 New York
A partnership with Saga allowed the label to experiment with fur for the first time. A long navy coat came with a removable fox-pelt waistband; another, in white, featured removable raccoon cuffs. These add-ons were definitely more luxe than punk, but they provided a nice textural volume to the layered knits and silk prints. The emphasis on layering, along with a smattering of plaids and a few velvet maxi skirts, called to mind yet another music era: grunge. Add a slipdress, a few cropped sweaters, and a fusty-kitsch floral print, and most of the women's looks landed solidly—and wearably—in the nineties.
The menswear was less idiosyncratic. Subtle tweaks on solid classics—like pants with a tuxedo stripe on the inside of the thigh, as opposed to out—made the label's hooded sweatshirts, duffel coats, and fitted work shirts the ideal foundation pieces for a casual, well-tailored wardrobe. Were there incendiary fashion moves afoot here? No. But hip prints, quality fabrics, and a great fit are plenty to get fired up about.