Last month Sienna and Savannah Miller parted ways with the label they started with Pepe Jeans in 2007. Coincidentally, that was a year that saw the launch of several celebrity lines: Sarah Jessica Parker's now defunct budget line, Bitten; Kate Moss for Topshop; DVB, the denim and sunglasses label that preceded Victoria Beckham's très chic dresses; and un-celebrity label The Row.

The Miller sisters never won serious fashion adulation like Moss, the Olsens, or, later, Beckham, save the sparky prospect of seeing Jude Law at a show, but their label did survive. Still, even as Sienna's role waned in recent seasons, and Savannah turned the brand into a contemporary business with solid footing, it would seem that the Millers themselves remained the hook.

Of course, that doesn't mean that Twenty8Twelve can't survive and thrive without them. It might just do both. At today's presentation Pepe Jeans managing director Nish Soneji was on hand to assure people that it would. He reported increased sales, and plans to add stores in New York, Paris, and a few cities in China.

New creative director Elsa Elphick, who had worked with the Millers since the launch, was similarly optimistic. She had reason to be. There was something a bit meatier to these clothes, inspired by the sixties-era mockumentary Primitive London and Pop artist Allen Jones, among other things. A pink micro-bouclé shift had a peplum that zipped all the way off, and a pair of cool seamed skinny trousers in the same material wore like neoprene leggings. Collarless V-neck jackets were well tailored and not so basic, and a knit waffle-weave skater dress with a gold zip up the back seemed like the kind of thing you might find at Carven. In all, it was direction with promise. One suggestion: Lose the baby dolls. Sienna has left the building.